

































































REPORT 


OF A 



MADE ON 

CERTAIN LANDS AND MINES 


IN THE COUNTIES OF 


HAYWOOD, MADISOY, BUNCOMBE, JACKSON AND MACON, N. C. 
AND IN COCKE COUNTA", TENNESSEE. 




/ 

BY RICHARD OWEN, M. D., 


Professor of Natural Science , Indiana State University; Author of “ Key to th 
Geology of the Globe,” and late State Geologist of Indiana. 



INDIANAPOLIS : 

INDIANAPOLIS PRINTING AND PUBLISHING HOUSE. 

1869 . 









Tv/ J 

I **■ /! 


/ 


/ 


t 


i / f 


New Harmony, Ind., September 4, 1867. 


Col. J. G. Eve , Barb our ville, Ky.: 

Dear Sir: Subjoined you will find the report of the mines and 
lands which I examined at your request and in your company, 
partly situated in East Tennessee, but chiefly in the counties of 
Haywood, Madison, Buncombe, Jackson and Macon in the State 
of North Carolina. As I understood your wish, and that of the 
other parties interested, to be that I should give not only the 
ascertained facts regarding the minerals and mining advantages of 
those regions, but also the agricultural and commercial facilities, 
I have endeavored to embody all those points in my report, giv¬ 
ing, first, general observations, and afterwards detailed facts. I 
have addressed the report to you, as you accompanied me, and 
are more or less interested in all the tracts described. Allow me, 
in this connection, to acknowledge my heartfelt appreciation of 
the energetic and kind courtesy which you brought to bear for the 
purpose of furnishing means and facilities in the prosecution of 
the exploration, as well as my grateful remembrance of the uni¬ 
form hospitality and warm-hearted kindness with which (although 
known to be a Northern man and Federal officer during the war), 
I was invariably treated by the citizens of Kentucky, East Ten¬ 
nessee and North Carolina. Through this medium I rejoice, pub¬ 
licly, to record my warm obligations for such disinterestedness, 
the instances of which were too numerous for individual mention, 
and might, possibly, if specified by giving the names of our hos¬ 
pital entertainers, appear to violate the sanctity of private life. 


Respectfully and truly, yours, 


Richard Owen. 



\C 


REPORT 


PRELIMINARY REMARKS 


Although I hope and believe that the statement of facts in 
this, as in all my reports, would be entirely unbiased, whether I 
did or did not possess a pecuniary interest in the mines and lands 
reported upon, still it may add to the confidence entertained by 
the public to be assured that I have at present no share in these 
enterprises, although I have sufficient confidence in their success 
~ v to be willing to invest to a considerable amount. 

£ Different regions reported upon are in the disposal of several 
separate and distinct companies, being sometimes held only by 
lease for mining purposes, but being more generally held in fee 
simple. In some cases mining operations have been carried on 
to a considerable extent, but in others, while the mineral pros¬ 
pects are by no means overlooked, the chief inducements are 
rather the cheapness of land and fine agricultural advantages of¬ 
fered in the settlement of alternate tracts at very low rates ; the 
dependence for profit being rather, as I understand, in the pros¬ 
pective advance in the value of the alternate lands retained* 
while, at the same time, the value is enhanced of those tracts 
thus actually settled. An inspection of the details will furnish 
data on these subjects to such as may wish to settle in these 
alternate regions; but, to save repetition, I propose to give in 
advance of details some general information which is, in a great 
measure, applicable to all the lands held in fee simple in the 
above named counties of North Carolina, especially Macon, Jack- 
3011 and Haywood. The mines and lands leased are chiefly in 
Jocke county, Tennessee, and in Haywood and Buncombe coun¬ 
ties, North Carolina. 



I shall speak, therefore, I. Of the Physical Geography, General 


Geology and Mining prospects. II. Of the Agricultural advan¬ 
tages. III. Of the facilities, both present and prospective, for 
bringing the surplus products of those regions into market by 
railroads, turnpikes, &c. IV. Of the health, climate, water, tim¬ 
ber, water privileges and miscellaneous characteristics of those 



4 


x 


regions. Y. The details: 1. Of property on Blue Ridge, White- 
sides and Black Hawk mountains, owned by Messrs. Jennings, 
Ammon & Co., and by Messrs. A. L. & A. J. Herren & Co. 2. Of 
lands held by Messrs. A. L. & A. J. Herren & Co., chiefly on 
Standing Indian, Nantehala and Alarka. J. Of the Maddron and 
Wilkins Creek, &c., mines in Haywood county. 4. Of miscella¬ 
neous tracts. VI. Lastly, a summary or synopsis of the con¬ 
clusions arrived at. 

In accordance with the above arrangement, I take up 

I. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY, GENERAL GEOLOGY AND MINING PROSPECTS. 

An inspection of a good map will show that the region under 
examination forms part of the great Appalachian System, which 
tends generally in a northeast and southwest direction, in ridges 
parallel to the Atlantic coast, with subordinate spurs. The valleys 
between the ridges are valleys of elevation; thus, for instance, 
the valley in Tennessee, east of the Cumberland Gap, is more 
than two hundred feet higher than the valley west of the “Gap” 
in Kentucky; so, too, the plateaus west of the Blue Ridge are 
extensive table lands, several hundred feet higher than the ad¬ 
joining valleys in South Carolina and Georgia. In and near 
Smoky Ridge I found some passes about four thousand feet above 
the ocean ; and the plain of Waynesville, the county seat of 
Haywood, is about three thousand seven hundred and fifty feet 
above high tide. Many of the valleys are the result of denuda¬ 
tion ; but the summits of the ridges are supposed to have raised 
themselves above the ocean at an early period of the earth’s his¬ 
tory, although the last evidences of disturbance in the Appa¬ 
lachian chain must have been as late as the close of the Paleozoic 
Period, the carboniferous strata having been raised to a consid¬ 
erable angle, when the central upheaval of gneissoid rocks threw 
some metamorphic strata almost into a vertical position, and so 
altered parts of the limestone that, in proximity of the crystalline 
rocks, it strikes fire with steel, yet a few miles from there burns 
into excellent lime. 

From the report of Prof. Salford, State Geologist of Tennessee, 
the general geological features of Cocke county are seen to com¬ 
prise crystalline rocks with some metamorphic, a geological con¬ 
dition usually indicative of mineral wealth, viz.: near the junc¬ 
tion of crystalline and sedimentary formations. Passing from 
this region over Smoky Ridge into Western North Carolina, the 
crystalline rocks (chiefly gneissoid, micaceous and hornblendic 
in character), predominate; and it is only when we reach the 
southern portion of this western end of the State that the meta- 


5 


morphic rocks show themselves in a limestone so susceptible of 
a poli-h and so destitute of all organisms as to constitute a true 
statuary marble. 

Thus, in the regions I was called upon to examine, there was 
theoretical probability of metaliferous veins, and the report, pf 
Prof. Kerr (appointed State Geologist of North Carolina since 
the death of Dr. Emmons), goes to show that the theoretical in¬ 
dications are realized by “ the great gold-belt deposits of the 
Blue Bidge, the copper-belt of Jackson and Macon, the iron ore 
region of Madison and Haywood counties, and the beautiful mar¬ 
ble of Nantehala.” 

From the time I left Tazewell, in East Tennessee, after being 
as far south as South Carolina and Georgia, I did not see a single 
fossil in place until I again returned to Tazewell. The crystal¬ 
line rocks are mainly gneiss, often syenitic, the hornblende re¬ 
placing the mica; the metamorphic strata are mica slate, some¬ 
times talcose, hornblende slate, clay slate and metamorphic 
limestone. There is usually a deficiency of felspar and a predom¬ 
inance of hornblendic minerals, as actinolite, pargasite and asbes- 
tus; also, anhydrous silicates of alumina, as kyanite, staurotide, 
garnets and mica; of silicious minerals, quartz in every variety 
(sometimes decomposed), and of the magnesian minerals, talc or 
steatite locally in abundance. 

From this statement it will be seen that the mines and lands, 
described in detail in this report are, as already stated, mainly 
located near the junction of crystalline and metamorphic rocks. 
Some of these lands are also directly in the line of strike from 
the Ducktown copper mines, giving additional probability to the 
finding of metallic wealth in such localities. It is a matter of 
note, too, that all the productive leads run nearly parallel to the 
main trend or direction of the mountain range, namely: some¬ 
times N. N. E. and S. S. W, at others E. N. E. and W. S. W. 

Several noted copper mines in Jackson county were worked 
somewhat extensively before the war, chiefly under the direction 
of a gentleman of experience, Mr. D. D. Davis, living near Web¬ 
ster, namely, the Cullowhee and Way-ye-hutta mines. The 
“gossan,' 7 or surface indication, is, as at Ducktown, an iron ore, 
but on penetrating beneath this, the proportionate quantity ot 
copper ore gradually increases. At Way-ye-hutta the ore is 
mainly either the bi-sulphuret of copper, or the green carbonate 
(malachite), with some blue carbonate of copper (azurite). I 
saw, also, a box full of fine specimens, rich in copper, from the 
Savannah mines, in the same county. The bearing was taken at 
the above mines, and several leased localities, hereafter spoken 


6 


of in detail, were found to be in the prolongation of the vein, 
and at but few miles distance from one or the other of the above 
mines. The so called “ gossan” at these localities seemed to be 
of the same character as at the “ mines,” rendering the develop¬ 
ment of copper, at greater depths, highly probable. 

II. THE AGRICULTURAL ADVANTAGES. 

Before visiting North Carolina, I had the general impression 
that the lands were unproductive, or, at least, that fertility was 
the exception and was confined to the valleys. But I found this 
was an entirely erroneous impression. Many of the hill-sides 
are under cultivation and produce excellent crops, and I have 
seen corn in some of the “coves” (terminations of valleys of 
elevation on the mountain sides), that would be considered more 
than an average crop, even in rich river bottoms. It is true, 
wheat, at some elevations, is not quite so productive as in the 
valleys, but oats are excellent, rye peculiarly good, and Irish 
potatoes as fine as I ever saw anywhere. 

The grazing is, however, the most attractive feature in this 
farming district, partly because it is sometimes not so easy, as in 
more densely settled regions, to get crops of grain to market, 
but chiefly because mountains, at that elevation, arrest passing 
clouds and condense them into rain; consequently, showers 
are of such frequent occurrence as to keep the* grass from scorch¬ 
ing or drying up. I saw cattle, mul°s, sheep and some horses 
grazing on these mountain pastures and appearing in remarkably 
good condition. Residents inform me that, except when the 
snow is deep or remains long (circumstances of very rare occur¬ 
rence), the mountain herbage and winter fern made into hay, will 
keep stock always the greater portion of winter, and sometimes 
the whole season through, without other feed. 

The extent and quality of the orchards in the regions visited 
also surprised me. The apple trees were loaded with fruit of the 
early and late varieties. Peaches do not succeed so well. Plums 
I saw in abundance at a few farms, and also cherries. Part of the 
country examined was near the native home of the Catawba 
grape, and in the woods I saw luxuriant vines of several vari¬ 
eties, the Muscadine, Fox, &c. Berries grow most profusely— 
blackberries, dewberries, wild gooseberries, and, in places, even 
cranberries. I saw on the mountains the greatest abundance of 
fine whortleberries, or huckleberries, both of the large and small 
varieties. 

Most of the gardens connected with the mountain farms exhib¬ 
ited a fine growth of cabbages and snap or bunch beans, and I 


7 


should judge that almost every vegetable would do well which 
flourishes in a moist and temperate climate. 

Before closing the subject of fruit and vegetables, I may re¬ 
mark that I had the pleasure of visiting Mr. Silas McDowell, near 
Franklin, Macon county, and of hearing him read his communi¬ 
cation to an Eastern journal on the “Thermal Belt for Fruit.” 
He has observed that there is a stratum of air at about three 
hundred feet above every valley examined (and extending up¬ 
ward three or four hundred feet above its point of commence¬ 
ment), warmer than there is either at any point lower in the 
valley or higher in the mountain than the belt designated. The 
Secretary of the Smithsonian Institute (Prof. Henry) has been 
corresponding with Mr. Silas McDowell on the subject, and 
promises to give to the public a detailed notice of the observa¬ 
tions made. If this prove true of all localities, fruit in these 
mountain regions could be cultivated at such an elevation as to 
render it a never failing crop, and a source of health, comfort 
and profit. 

From some cause or other, bees seem to thrive remarkably 
well and to be great favorites in this part of North Carolina. 
We saw at one farm about seventy-five stand, and heard of one 
farmer who owned over a hundred bee-hives, or bee-gums, as the 
hive is usually part of a hollow tree. 

It will be seen, from the above statements, that the grazing 
lands offered in large bodies to actual settlers or to capitalists, 
possess most of the advantages which are desired by farmers, 
particularly stock raisers, and I should suppose would be especially 
adapted as the residence or selection of emigrants from 
European mountainous regions, such as Scotland, Switzerland, 
parts of Germany, Sweden and Norway. 

Gen. Clingman, well known as a man of science, has given his 
views of this region from long experience. They are embodied 
in a letter copied by the Ashville (N. C.) News, of July 25, 1867, 
from a pamphlet published at New Tork by the “American Agri¬ 
cultural and Mineral Land Company.” The assurance to immi¬ 
grants of a hearty welcome and protection from the Governor of 
the State is also subjoined to the document. 

New York, June 12, 1867. 

To Wm. Frazier, Esq., President of the American Agricultural and Mineral Land 
Company, New York: 

Dear Sir: The short period during which I expect to remain in this citj r , 
and the pressure of business engagements, will prevent my replying at length 
to your inquiries in relation to the western part of North Carolina. 

For a great many years I have resided on the west side of the Blue Ridge, 
the range of mountains which divides the waters falling into the Atlantic 


8 


from those descending to the Mississippi River. Having for more than six¬ 
teen years been a Representative or Senator in Congress from that region, I 
used in my canvasses to visit every part of it. I have also ascended the prin¬ 
cipal mountains for the purpose of measuring or observing them, while my 
fondness for geology and mineralogy has carried me into almost every valley. 
My general acquaintance, therefore, with this entire region, probably exceeds 
that of any other person. 

It may be regarded as an elevated table-land of more than two hundred 
miles in length, with an average breadth of fifty miles, and is crossed in dif¬ 
ferent directions by many mountain chains. The height of the lower valleys 
ma 3 r be stated as ranging from two thousand to twenty-five hundred feet 
above the level of the sea, while the principal mountain chains rise four 
thousand feet higher. This elevation, notwithstanding its southern latitude, 
gives it a delightful summer climate. 

Mr. Wm. McDowell, who made observations for the Smithsonian Institute, 
at Asheville, for several years, informed me that the thermometer during the 
warmest summer weather did not rise above eighty-two degrees Fahrenheit. 
Even the climate of Switzerland is not equal to that of this region ; not only 
at Geneva, but in the high valley of Chamouny, I once found hotter weather 
than I ever experienced in this section; while there, one is occasionally chilled 
in mid-summer by cold blasts from the masses of snow on the higher Alps. 
In western North Carolina, none of the mountains are high enough to bear 
snow in summer, yet the region is sufficiently elevated to afford a climate 
which is cool, dry, bracing and exceedingly exhilerating. No country is 
more healthy, being alike free from the diseases of miasmatic regions, as well 
as those common in rigorous or damp climates. 

What especially distinguishes this section from all other mountain regions 
that I have seen, is the general fertility of its soil. This is true not only with 
reference to its valleys, but also of its mountains. Their sides and even tops 
are generally covered with a thick vegetable mould, on which the largest 
trees and grasses grow luxuriantly. At an elevation of five thousand feet 
above the ocean, the grasses and weeds are so rank as to remind one of the 
swampy lands of the lower regions. On the tops, and for a considerable dis¬ 
tance down the sides of the higher chains, there are several varieties of ever¬ 
green or “winter grass,” as they are generally called there. These are so 
nutritious that cattle are kept in good condition on them all the winter. A 
friend of mine before the war kept four or five hundred horned cattle on one 
of these mountains, and with the exception that they were supplied with salt 
occasional^, they subsisted entirely, both in summer and winter, on those 
grasses. The older cattle, he assured me, soon learned to understand the 
effect of the seasons, and without being driven, they led the herds, in the 
spring, down the sides of the mountains to obtain the young grasses that 
came up with the warm weather, and when these were destroyed by the 
autumn frosts they returned to the tops to get the evergreen vegetation, and 
found shelter under the spreading branches of the balsam fir trees in stormy 
weather. 1 have seen in Haywood county a five year old horse that was said 
to have been foaled and reared entirely on the top of Balsam Mountain, and 
was then for the first time brought down, to see cultivated land and eat food 
grown by the hand of man. 

Those portions of the mountain that are without timber are, of course, cov¬ 
ered by the thickest coats of grass. The balsam trees which cover for so great 
an extent the Great Smoky, Balsam, and Black Mountains, could be easily 



9 


gotten rid of at a cost of not more than a couple of dollars per acre. It is so 
soft as to be easily cut, and if felled and suffered to lie a few months, its leaves 
would become quite dry, and it might be burned with the greatest facility. 
When thus destroyed, it would not spring up again, but in its stead a very 
thick sward of evergreen grass. Immense winter pastures could in this way 
be prepared, and thousands of cattle thus sustained in the winter, with only 
an occasional supply of salt. 

Where the lands in this part of the State are placed under proper cultiva¬ 
tion, they produce abundantly. On choice spots, more than one hundred 
bushels to the acre of Indian corn has frequently been obtained, and this 
valuable grain is everywhere produced in sufficient quantity. Wheat, also, 
does well, while oats, rye and barley are particularly good. It is especially 
suited to the production of grasses, timothy, orchard and herds grass, or red 
top being usually preferred. Clover and blue grass grow well, but are not so 
good as in some counties having more lime in the soil. Last summer I went 
■with Mr. N. W. Woodlin over a mountain farm of his; the land of which had 
originally cost him less than one dollar per acre. It had been cleared by cut¬ 
ting out the undergrowth, and girdling the large timber so as to deaden it, and 
then put in grass, nearly twenty years previously. It was covered over with 
a thick growth of timothy and orchard grass, much of which appeared as r 
thick and as tall as a fair wheat field. In some places we found both of these 
grasses rising high enough, as we sat on our horses, for us to take the top of 
the stalks growing on each side, and cause them to meet above the withers of 
our horses. I never, in fact, saw better grass anywhere than grew generally 
over this entire tract of twelve hundred acres. 

Irish potatoes, cabbages and turnips are grown in the greatest quantities, 
while no country excels this for fruits. Its apples, both in size and flavor, 
excel those that 1 have seen in any other part of the world; while peaches 
pears and grapes grow abundantly. Besides the Catawba, there are a great 
many other native grapes. One gentleman thinks he has obtained a hundred 
varieties of native grapes, some of which he considers superior to the Catawba, 
That this country is admirably adapted to the production of grapes and wine 
there can be no question. The fact that varieties of grapes can be selected, 
that ripen at different periods of the autumn, will make the vintage longer 
than it is in Europe, and thus increase the amount of wine made. All kinds 
of live stock, thrive in the country, though horses and horned cattle have been 
more generally raised, because they require less care from the farmer. Sheep 
are very healthy, and grow well everywhere. As large sheep as I ever saw 
vmre some that were suffered to run in the woods, both in summer and win¬ 
ter, without being fed. Mr. Woodtin also stated to me, that he could, from 
the stock of his farm above alluded to, at all periods of the winter obtain 
good mutton and beef from the animals that were subsisted on the grass* 
Even when sheep are to be kept in large numbers, it is certain that they 
would do with half the feeding they require during the long winters in New 
England. Snow seldom remains many days at a time, even on the mountain 
tops in North Carolina ; and when the grass is good, little is required in the 
form of hay or other food for the stock. 

The minerals of this region have hitherto been turned to very little account 
There are some narrow belts of marble and lime-stone which furnish a suffi¬ 
ciency of lime for use, and from which good marble can be procured at cer¬ 
tain points. The different ores of iron, of the best qualities, exist in great 
abundance in many places, and from them superior iron can be made. Large 
and promising veins of copper have been cut in several localities in Jackson 



10 


county, and surface indications leave little doubt but that similar deposits 
will be found in other counties. Gold has been profitably mined in the coun¬ 
ties of Jackson, Macon and Cherokee, but less extensively than in the section 
east of the Blue Ridge. It is quite probable that good veins of this metal will, 
in time, be opened, and there is encouragement to search for lead and silver at 
several points. The barytes and chrome ores can be brought into use when 
the railaoads are finished that have been provided for by the State. Though 
coal does not exist, its want will not be experienced for a long period, as the 
immense forests will supply fuel for a great number of years, and long before 
the} T can become exhausted, railroads will permeate all parts of the district, 
and will bring in supplies of this valuable mineral from localities not far dis¬ 
tant. 

The country is everywhere intersected by bold and rapid streams, and the 
supply therefore, of water power, is beyond any demand that can ever exist 
for it. These streams, from the elevated valleys in which the 3 r are first col¬ 
lected, have a descent of not less than one thousand feet before they escape 
into the State of Tennessee, and present at various points therefore, rapids and 
falls where the water can be conveniently used for manufacturing purposes. 

Though this region lacks the boldness and grandeur of the Alps, this defi¬ 
ciency is more than balanced bjr the fact that every part ot it is susceptible of 
settlement and cultivation. The fact that the mountains as well as the valleys 
are covered by a luxuriant vegetation, gives to them a green and inviting 
appearance which renders many of the scenes peculiarly attractive to the 
beholder. The present population, though sparse, is quiet, industrious, intel¬ 
ligent and moral; the negroes there not being numerous enough to constitute 
an important element in the whole society. I know of no country more invit¬ 
ing to industrious emigrants, when one considers its excellent climate, water 
and soil, its mining and manufacturing resources, and its cheap lands and 
good population. 

Very truly yours, T. L. Clingman. 

Raleigh, 1ST. C., May 28, 1867. 

Dear Sir: —Immigrants proposing to settle in North Carolina, may not 
only rely upon all the security to their persons and property which good 
laws, faithfully administered, can give, but our people will welcome them 
with hospitality and every kindness. 

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

Jonathan Worth, 
Governor of North Carolina. 


III. OF RAILROAD AND OTHER FACILITIES. 

A portion of the fine grazing lands spoken of above, particularly 
the so-called Buttermilk land, and other table lands of the Blue 
Ridge, are in sight of Walhalla, although thirty or thirty-five 
miles distant. This town is a German settlement on a branch of 
the Greenville and Columbia branch of the South Carolina rail¬ 
road, in a few years to be completed to Knoxville, Tennessee. A 
good turnpike, well graded and regularly worked, passes over 
the Blue Ridge, and is much traveled by wagons conveying pro¬ 
duce to this terminus and bringing goods back, so that even at 


11 


present the outlet is as good as in many thickly settled portions 
of our Western States. But the contemplated railroad north from 
this point passes through portions of the table lands described, 
and none would be more than a few miles distant when that 
railroad is completed. 

To facilitate the understanding of these railroad facilities and 
market outlets, it may be advantageous here to mention briefly 
the roads already in operation and likewise those in progress. 
There is one railroad (the Atlantic and North Carolina railroad), 
running nearly east and west, all through the State of North 
Carolina, beginning at Morehead City, on the Atlantic; running 
thence through Newbern and Raleigh, the capital, to Salisbury; 
thence branching to Morgantown is to pass through Ashville (all 
but eighteen miles of this last piece is graded); thence through 
Waynesville, Webster, Red Marble Gap and Murphy to Duck- 
town, Tennessee. This railroad would pass close to many of the 
mining regions spoken of in this report. 

Another continuous railroad, called the South Carolina rail¬ 
road (already alluded to as being near and designed to pass 
through the Blue Ridge table lands), commences near the ocean 
at Charleston, South Carolina, and keeps a northerly direction 
through Columbia, and there branching to form the Greenville 
and Columbia railroad, terminates at present by one branch at 
Greenville and by another at Walhalla, but in a few years is ex¬ 
pected to be completed to Knoxville, Tennessee. The Greenville 
branch of this Charleston railroad is expected to pass by Ash¬ 
ville and, crossing the Knoxville railroad at or near Morristown, 
is to continue to Cumberland Gap, thus meeting the Louisville 
and Lebanon branch of the Nashville railroad, which is in pro¬ 
gress between Crab Orchard, Mt. Vernon and London, Kentucky. 

Thus the outlet, even for grain, is good to the Eastern and 
Southern markets, while for cattle or mules, either shipped on 
railroads or driven along main routes, a market can readily be 
had; or, if preferred, farmers can remain and sell their stock at 
home, as buyers are constantly passing along and making up 
droves. 

IV. OF THE HEALTH, CLIMATE, TIMBER, WATER, WATER PRIVILEGES, AND 
MISCELLANEOUS CHARACTERISTICS OF THESE REGIONS. 

One of the greatest advantages to be secured in any region is 
health. Judging from what I saw, heard and experienced, I 
should consider this portion of North Carolina pre-eminently 
favored in this point of view. The chief diseases which prevail, 
and they are rare, are usually the result of undue exposure in 




12 


winter, or of neglect in securing suitable diet. The average 
longevity of the citizens of this State has frequently been no¬ 
ticed as being remarkably high, and my own observation con¬ 
firmed the statements I had seen and heard. There are no mias¬ 
matic diseases; chill and fever are unknown, physicians have 
but little to do, and drugs are scarce. During over six weeks of 
constant riding, I was frequently overtaken by rain, and had sel¬ 
dom an opportunity of getting my clothing thoroughly dry, yet I 
never caught cold or experienced any disadvantage to health; 
hence, I feel bound to believe that the climate is healthy. Most 
persons (judging from the latitude, which is about 35 deg. north)? 
would expect to find this part of the United States uncomfortably 
warm, and foreigners from cool regions might hence be deterred 
from selecting this State; but, from my experience, I should say, 
they need have no apprehensions, for during the months of July 
and August, 1867, most of which I spent in the mountains of 
Western North Carolina, I never suffered from heat at all, unless 
I was exposed to the sun, sleeping always under a blanket; and, 
even when in the sun, seldom experiencing discomfort, because 
there was usually a fine mountain breeze. 

The water is almost invariably soft, or what they term freestone 
water, suitable for washing clothing at every stream. 

The rivers have such a rapid descent and so many falls, that 
water privileges are unbounded; and cheap mills are found every 
few miles. The owner of one assured me that the mill-building 
(a cabin), wheel, run of stones (granite obtained close by), and 
every thing included, ready to grind for custom, had only cost 
him sixteen dollars, besides two or three weeks of his own labor. 

On many of the mountain sides there is as fine timber as could 
be desired, and very little undergrowth. In some regions there 
are several species of pine and spruce, although these by no 
means predominate. The poplar, or tulip tree, is found of as 
large size as in Indiana, besides hickory, ash, black and white 
walnut, beech, elm, dogwood, gum, and most of our Western 
common trees; also, the large magnolia (M. grandidora ), the 
long leaved cucumber tree {magnolia auriculata ), chestnut 
white oak {quercus pinus palustris ), alder {alnus serrulata ), 
red birch {betula rubra ), American holly {ilex opaca ), chincapin 
{castanea pumila ), American chestnut {castanea vesca), Ameri¬ 
can hornbeam {carpinus Virginiana ), downy lime tree {tilia, 
pubescens ), and hemlock spruce {abies Canadensis). 

Many valuable medicinal plants are found, some in the moun¬ 
tains, as ginseng {Arabia quinquefolia ), gentian ( G. quinque- 
dora) rattle weed or black snakeroot {cim.icifuga racemosa ), 


13 


white snakeroot (eupatorium ageratoides ), spikenard ( Azalia 
racemosa ), and other interesting flowers, which are occasionally 
cultivated in our gardens, as ladies’ slipper ( cipripedium acaule 
and parvidorum), Turk’s cap lily (lilium superbum ), wild indigo 
(baptisia tinctoria ), and others, lower down or in the valleys, as 
mountain laurel ( kalmia latifolia ), and dwarf rose bay {rhodo- 
dendrum maximum ), water hemlock ( cicuta maculata ), elecam¬ 
pane ( inula fielenium ), May apple {podophyllum pcitatum), im¬ 
mense areas of passion flower {passiiiora incarnated), Indian to¬ 
bacco {lobelia indatci ), Indian physic {gillenia trifoliata ), squaw 
root {conopholis Americana ), besides a variety of other plants^ 
the botanical names of which I did not know. Dr. Curtis. I learn, 
published at Raleigh, in 1860, a work on the woody plants of 
North Carolina, but I was unable to obtain a copy for reference 
before closing this report. 

In enumerating the characteristics of this region as indicating 
the requisites for a healthful, agreeable residence, it may not be 
amiss to call attention to the fact that I never felt a mosquito 
bite all the time I was out, and observed the residents never use 
or require mosquito bars. The only disagreeable animals that 
are more numerous than now in the Middle or Western States 
are some two or three species of poisonous snakes, which are 
rather abundant in some rocky and mountainous regions ; yet I 
saw fewer than I expected, and heard of but few cases in which 
serious accidents had occurred. The citizens of that region use 
the white snake root as a cure for the virus. The settlement of 
the country and the introduction of hogs would soon rid this por¬ 
tion of North Carolina of poisonous snakes. There are a few bears 
and wildcats in portions of the mountains, but they are not at 
all troublesome; deer are tolerably abundant, as well as smaller 
game. 

The only objection which I ever heard urged against parts of 
North Carolina was the so-called “ milk sickness,” which affects 
cattle and the milch cows at certain seasons ; but this does not 
exist at all any where near these fine table lands of the Blue 
Ridge, regarding which I have been speaking; and in those 
other counties, where it does occasionally exist, it can be eradi¬ 
cated by cultivation ; besides, it is found locally through portions 
of all the Western States, Missouri, Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, and 
in Illinois abundantly. 


14 


V. DETAILS REGARDING THE LANDS EXAMINED. 

1. Blue Ridge Property on Whiteside and Black Rock , owned 
by Messrs. Jennings , Ammen Go ., and by Messrs. A. L. and 

A. J. llerren <& Co. 

The remarks on this land will apply to nearly the whole of a 
40,000 acre tract, including the property of Messrs. Jennings & 
Co., on the Sugartown Fork of the Tennessee river; also the 
Buttermilk Level Lands and those in the Horse Cove, besides 
1,920 acres owned by Messrs. Herren & Co., on and near White- 
side Mountain; also 50 and 134 acres in Oasher’s Valley, and 
finally 640 acres on Black Rock Mountain. 

This whole property is very favorably situated. Most of the 
land is level and fertile, suitable for small grain and roots, excel¬ 
lent for pasturage in a very healthy region, with plenty of soft 
water, only thirty or thirty-five miles from the South Carolina 
Railroad, which is expected shortly to be continued through 
them. A good turnpike, meantime, leads through a portion of 
the property, and not far from any of it. 

Much gold has been washed in the valleys connected with part 
of it, and the precious metal is no doubt derived from the quartz 
veins which show themselves on Whiteside Mountains, and prob¬ 
ably also from Black Rock and Fodder Stack, not far from the 
South Carolina and Georgia corner. The deposit of gold extends 
into those States also. The nearest point on the railroad alluded 
to is Walhalla, a German settlement in South Carolina, and 
Greenville, on the other branch, is but a little farther. The town 
of Walhalla can be distinctly seen, in a clear da} r , from Whiteside 
Mountain; indeed there is a prospect all around, to at least 
double that distance, or about sixty miles, where other ranges of 
mountains show themselves. The whole view is as fine as any I 
ever recollect seeing, except perhaps in Switzerland ; even finer, 
I think, than from the Catskill Mountains, or from the Rocky 
Mountains in New Mexico, or from the Sierra Madre, near 
Monterey, in Mexico. By deviating a short distance from the 
turnpike two very fine waterfalls can be seen on the Sugartown 
Fork of the Tennessee river; and in Georgia, at about forty miles’ 
distance, are others, said to be even finer. 

Thus all the advantages necessary to render this a desirable 
tract for a colony, or settlement, by persons desiring to form 
their own society, seem here combined. The only drawbacks, at 
present, are want of society, schools and churches. But such a 
colony as ought to settle here would soon bring those advantages 
near enough to each family. 


15 


ior those who prefer mining, there are very promising indica¬ 
tions on the Whiteside Mountain, where the Indians are reported 
to have had a silver mine. It is only about thirty years since the 
Indians left that region. The property is chiefly in Macon county, 
of which Franklin is the capital, partly in Jackson county, with 
Webster as the county seat. The title to it is in fee simple. 

2. Property on Standing Indian. 

Besides this tract owned by Messrs. Herren & Co., there will 
be included, under this head, land on N'antehala river, about six 
hundred and forty acres on Alarka, one thousand and eight hun¬ 
dred to two thousand acres on Cown Mountain and Creek; 
besides three hundred acres on Silver Creek, the property of 
Mr. J. K. Ammen, and about two thousand acres belonging to 
Messrs. Ammen, Higdan, Bryson & Co., on the head of Alarka. 
The above tracts are mainly in the western part of Macon county, 
and are held in fee simple. This property is in some respects 
similar in character to the lands first described in detail. Here 
too there is a fair prospect of metalliferous wealth, as the 
Savannah mines, which have afforded a rich copper ore, are at a 
short distance from that part called the Beasley land, on Cown 
Creek ; and the vein from that mine evidently trends toward the 
property. When the Knoxville branch of the Greenville & 
Columbia Railroad is completed, these lands will be partly on 
the line and partly a few miles from railroad facilities. Undoubt¬ 
edly when that period arrives, not only the marble quarries, but 
also the soapstone, will be mined extensively and profitably. 

3. Maddron Mines , dec. 

This subdivision will give some details regarding the hundred 
acres leased by Messrs. Maddron & Co., from Mr. Samuel McGalia, 
for ninety-nine years; and also furnish some account of the 
Wilkin’s Creek property, held in fee simple by the “Merry Crew 
Company” (Messrs. McCracken, Ferguson & Co.), besides speak¬ 
ing of the lease from Mr. Brown, on the Fine’s Creek property, 
and of two from the Messrs. Rathbone. Also of the explorations 
about Mr. Cyrus Rogers’ place, on Rush Fork of Crab Tree; like¬ 
wise the examinations on Mr. Frank Worley’s farm on Sandy 
Mush, Madison county, and some on Mr. Wm. Liner’s, not far 
from Waynesville. These lands are situated chiefly in Haywood, 
although partly in Madison and Buncombe counties, and are not 
especially recommended as level, arable lands, but rather for the 
prospects of developing mineral wealth, as on nearly all these 
remarkably fine magnetic iron ore is found, which, on analysis 
made by Mr. Cox, afforded the following: 


16 


Sesqui-oxide of Iron (giving pure iron G0.7G). 86.80 

Tungstic acid.40 

Titanic acid...p 

Lime, magnesia and alkalies. 1-80 

Insoluable silicates. 8.80 

Water and loss. 2.05 


100.00 

Specific gravity 4.9. 

This ore contains nothing injurious, and is rich in iron ot a 
quality valuable for the manufacture of steel on the new process, 
in consequence of the presence of tungstic acid. 

At the Maddron mine, in Haywood county, N. O., the gossan is 
promising, but the work lias not been carried far enough to test? 
certainly, the presence of copper or silver in workable quantities. 
A mineral is found there abundantly, which is a variety of rutile 
called nigrine, a titanic mineral employed in painting on porce¬ 
lain, and for giving the requisite color to artificial teeth. Another 
mineral found here is a species of emerylite, and may lead to the 
discovery of emery. 

4. Punch Bowl Mine and Other Localities . 

In Cocke county, Tenn., there has been a considerable amount 
of prospecting done by Messrs. Stokely, Ellison & Co., and the 
Punch Bowl locality, besides being theoretically promising, has 
furnished some ore that I was very desirous to analyze; but 
unfortunately the package sent never reached Morristown. The 
decomposing rock on the lands of Sexton, Parker and others, in 
the same count} 7 , afforded Mr. Cox on analysis: 


Loss by ignition to a bright red heat (water). 14.3 

Silica . .. 44.2 

Alumina. 42.0 

Lime, magnesia and protoxide of iron. a trace 


100.5 

This mineral is hard, compact and greasy to the touch, before 
being crushed; gives then a white powder free from grit. It 
promises, from all this evidence, to be valuable as a porcelain 
clay, and will be found, from an examination of Dana’s miner¬ 
alogy, to differ but little from the porcelain clay of Cornwall and 
other European localities. The same may be said of a locality 
on the North Carolina side of this Walnut mountain (part of 
Great Smoky), not far from Mr. Felmet’s, on Tines creek, Bun¬ 
combe county, where we also found wolfram, or tungstate of iron. 
The decomposing rock gave, on analysis: 


Silica . 47.2 

Alumina ..<. 36.0 

Lime, magnesia and iron.. a trace 

Water... 16.8 


100.0 




















17 


This kaolin was cream colored and soft. 

Under this head maybe mentioned also another similar sample 
of decomposing rock, forming a porcelain clay, near the farm of 
Mr. Dean, and not far from the “Shallow Ford” of the Tennessee 
river, where we saw specimens of graphite interspersed through 
the rock. Future developments may exhibit this graphite, or 
plumbago, in larger quantities. 

VI. SUMMARY, OR SYNOPSIS OF CONCLUSIONS. 

From the above facts it will be seen that the mining prospects 
are good on many tracts examined; that most excellent iron can 
be manufactured from the magnetic iron ore, the iron rendered 
more valuable by the presence of tungsten. That gold may be 
profitably washed from deposits in Horse Cove, Casher’s Valley 
and elsewhere in that region; and that there is a fair prospect of 
tracing these deposits to their quartz matrix, in Whiteside and 
other mountains close by, thus making gold washing more profit¬ 
able by employing crushers, &c. Further, that porcelain clay is 
found in considerable and paying quantities in Cocke county, 
Tenn., and in JMacon and Buncombe counties, N. C. Also that 
copper may very probably be worked to advantage in those 
leases in Macon and Jackson, which are near the Cullowhee, 
Wayyehutta and Savanna mines. And lastly, that when the 
projected railroads are completed the prospects will be good for 
the opening of marble and steatite quarries. 

As regards the agricultural facilities, I think it would be diffi¬ 
cult to find a region which combines more advantages than are 
to be realized in the Blue Kidge tracts—pure water, extensive 
grazing range, proximity' to market, and fine scenery. But above 
all, the paramount consideration of a remarkably healthful and 
agreeable climate, uniting the advantage of short winters, such 
as exist in latitude thirty-five degrees north, with the temperate 
summers found at an altitude of three thousand to three thou¬ 
sand five hundred feet above the ocean. 

In view of these considerations, it seems as if it would be diffi¬ 
cult for immigrants to select a locality combining more advan¬ 
tages. Without any disparagement to some of our new North¬ 
western States, it may be admissible to mention their very long 
and dreary winters; in others, further west and in the extreme 
south, occasional parching droughts, which defeat the whole 
labor of the husbandman, and entirely disappoint him regarding 
his prospects with stock, while other rich bottom lands, well re¬ 
paying his labor, leave him no health to enjoy his ample profits, 
each autumn breaking down his strength with miasmatic remit- 
2 


18 


x 


tents and intermittents. In addition to the above considerations, 
we must add the fact, that most of the regions considered favora'- 
ble to the settler, as regards the accumulation of wealth, are 
already out of the reach of many purchasers, being held by spec¬ 
ulators at from two to ten dollars, even in remote regions. But 
the lands of North Carolina can be sold in large tracts to colon¬ 
ists or capitalists for from one to two dollars. 

It would seem, under these circumstances, that the facts had 
but to be brought before the community, desiring to emigrate 
from densely populated portions of the Eastern Continent, (where 
after a long life-time of hard work, they cannot hope to be land 
owners,) in order to show them at once the prospects of their 
being landed proprietors of extensive farms in a healthy region? 
on a free soil, and amid a social, intelligent people. 

More than this surely cannot be asked or expected by enlight¬ 
ened searchers after new and happy homes. 

A little management and combination of effort on the part of 
Colonists, will enable them to charter seaworthy vessels at the 
nearest ports, and to land at Charleston, South Carolina, (best, if 
practicable, in the months of May or June,) whence they can 
readily reach the tracts indicated, by about 250 to 300 miles of 
railroad travel. The expense on these railroads is, for first class 
fare, about five cents; second class, three cents per mile; there¬ 
fore, for this route, from ten to fifteen dollars, besides provisions 
for two days, and then thirty miles’ travel by wagon. At the 
present rates of second-class fare in merchant vessels, it is confi¬ 
dently believed that emigrants might travel two or three hundred 
miles in their own country, buy provisions and bedding for the 
voyage, pay their ship’s fare, and make the three hundred miles 
on this continent comfortably, for an average of $100 currency 
per head, certainly for £20 sterling in gold or silver, or twenty 
Napoleons, or about two hundred and fifty florins of forty-four 
cents each. I have conversed with those who came comfortably 
from Germany in Bremen vessels, as second class passengers. 
Everything (viz., bedding and provisions) is furnished for one 
hundred and five florins, thus rendering my estimate above, of 
$100 for the whole journey, a very safe calculation. 

Consider now a family of five coming out, say from Switzer¬ 
land, to North Carolina, for $500 in gold, and purchasing one 
hundred and sixty acres of land for $200, and buying a horse and 
implements for $300 more, how are they situated ? An entire 
family is removed from an overcrowded region and quietly set¬ 
tled, in six weeks, on a good farm, where, if the head of the fam¬ 
ily has not already a good house and land enough cleared, that 


19 


is soon effected with industry, if he has reared enough to buy 
winter food and bought a fair stock of clothing. In this manner, 
for an expenditure of $1,000 in gold, or 2,500 florins, a good sized 
family may be ever afterward independent land owners ; and, as 
the sons grow up, more land can be purchased in the same 
neighborhood. 

These seem to me important facts; and, as I have lived over 
thirty-nine years in the country, and traveled from the Atlantic 
to Arizona, from Canada to Mexico, and examined twenty-eight 
States in the Union, beside having resided three years in Switzer¬ 
land, thirteen in Scotland, and traveled in France and Germany, 
I may, perhaps, be justified in thus forming and expressing an 
opinion. In taking so important a step, however, as the emigrant 
does, it is well for him to inquire of many who are familiar with 
the country; or, if a sufficient colony desires to remove, one or 
more might be sent in advance to examine. In doing so, the 
above salubrious portions of Western North Carolina should not 
be overlooked. 

Those desiring to buy land can address Col. J. G. Eve, Barbour- 
ville, Kentucky, to whom this report is made, and he will 
promptly respond. 

Note.— Since the above report was made the following additional facts have 
been obtained, regarding railroads: 

The Western N. C. R. R. has had appropriated to it, by the State, from Mor¬ 
gantown via Ashville to Paint Rock, (the State line) in the direction of Mor¬ 
ristown and Ducktown, Tennessee, $10,000,000.00. This last road runs via 
Waynesville, Webster, Red Marble Gap and Murphy. They have the survey 
and location nearly completed, and expect to have the road completed by the 
close of 1870. 

At a meeting held in Franklin, North Carolina, by those interested in the 
Blue Ridge road, running from Knoxville via Maryville, Tenn., up Tennessee 
river via Rabera Gap to Walhalla, the President of the South Carolina portion 
was present, and a consolidation with the northern portion was spoken of- 
South Carolina appropriated $1,500,000 to the road at the last session of the 
Legislature. They intend to let out the road to contract at once. R. O. 









